Dessert Dessert

olive oil chocolate mousse

Bring out the rich chocolate flavor with olive oil and cardamom.

The first time I made this dairy-free chocolate mousse recipe adapted from What Einstein Told His Cook I had my doubts. Chocolate mousse without heavy whipping cream? Why bother. However, the final product did not disappoint - the whipped egg white proteins provided a delicate fluffy web that encased the rich egg yolk, chocolate, and olive oil. My twist was the addition of ground cardamom pods to put a Middle Eastern spin on a classically French dessert to help meld with the olive oil flavors and provide a bit more complexity and brightness. I also added a dollop of whipped cream (blerg, there goes the "dairy free" part, but you don't have to use it), a sprig of chocolate mint, grated dark chocolate, and a bit of coarse sea salt. The result was amazing - really, one of those desserts that people keep talking about. I will definitely be making this again. Serves 4 (servings aren't large, but are generous given how rich the dessert is).

  • 4 oz very good dark chocolate (the darker the better), finely chopped

  • 7-9 cardamom pods, seeds removed and ground with mortar and pestle or finely chopped (optional)

  • 2 eggs, divided

  • 1/2 cup powdered sugar

  • 2 tablespoons very strong coffee at room temperature

  • 1 tablespoon Cointreau (optional)

  • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

  • About 1/8 teaspoon sea salt

  • Whipped cream, fresh mint or chocolate mint, and grated chocolate, for garnish (optional)

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, stirring occasionally. Mix in cardamom and set aside to cool while preparing the egg mixture.

In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and powdered sugar until pale yellow and fluffy (about 1 minute). Whisk in the coffee and Cointreau (optional) to combine then stir in the melted chocolate. Add olive oil and mix well.

In another medium bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric beater until stiff peaks have formed (stage III). Fold 1/3 of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture with a whisk until all patches of white disappear then fold in the remaining egg whites using a rubber spatula just until combined. Do not overmix.

Transfer mousse to individual serving cups and refrigerate until well-chilled, at least 1 hour or overnight. Serve with whipped cream and optional fresh mint leaves and grated chocolate.

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Almond Olive Oil Cake with Blood Orange

I am a sucker for olive oil in desserts. There's something about the nutty/spiciness that imparts a savory quality I think balances really well with sweet foods. Why not have your cake and eat your healthy fats too with this moist and nutty dessert? Serves 8-12.

  • 1 cup almond meal or almond flour
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 2 large eggs
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/4 teaspoon almond extract
  • Grated zest of 1/2 a blood orange
  • 2 tablespoons blood orange juice

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour a 9-inch cake pan or springform pan.

Whisk together almond meal, flour, baking powder, and salt.

In another bowl, whisk eggs with sugar. Add olive oil and continue to mix until mixture has thickened, about 1 minute. Incorporate vanilla and almond extracts, zest, and orange juice and whisk to combine.

Add dry ingredients to mixture and whisk to combine.

Pour batter into prepared pan and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until cake is cooked thoroughly and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan.

Remove cake from oven and allow to cool for about 10 minutes before removing from pan. Serve cake on its own; topped with blood orange and creme fraiche or whipped cream; or with coffee or tea.

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Nine Ways to Angel Food

Investigating eggs the cake way.

I teach the food science application lecture and laboratory at UC Berkeley and one of my favorite weeks is the week where we investigate eggs using angel food cake. Not only because I absolutely love angel food and honestly, even the cakes with recipes that are intentionally messed up still taste good to me, but because I think eggs are amazing. They are amazing for their incredible nutrient density (what other food gives you so much protein, vitamins, and minerals in 75 calories?), but also because they perform such a diverse array of culinary tasks, from aroma to structure. Also, I love the fact that, once out of the shell, they are so fragile and sensitive - just a few degrees can create a completely different product. Unfortunately, not everyone shares this fascination with eggs, be it because of the way they smell or unfounded worries about saturated fat (an average of 1 egg per day is completely fine, the benefits outweigh the saturated fat content). Oh well - more for me!

Angel food cake is the perfect vehicle for evaluating the properties of egg white foams. In lab, we conduct this evaluation with nine different variations in addition to the classic “gold standard” recipe. 

Variations include (beginning with arrow and moving counter clockwise). Some worked as they were supposed to and others did not. See below for descriptions of what would theoretically happen to the cake, given the variation:

Cake 1, Classic: Gold Standard

Cake 2, Beat a longer time, until Stage IV: Proteins are overcoagulated, leaving cake "brittle" and stiff.

Cake 3, Beat foam a shorter time, until Stage I: Proteins not denatured/coagulated enough, no structure, does not rise.

Cake 4, Increased manipulation/folding of batter: Collapsed air cells that were created in beating the foam. Cake is dense and flat.

Cake 5, baked at a lower temperature for a longer period of time: Does not rise as high because no initial hot air.

Cake 6, cream of tartar omitted: COT is an acid that helps stabilize the proteins and bleaches anthocyanin, a yellow pigment. Cake without COT has a poorer structure, coarser crumb, and yellower color.

Cake 7, use of hand beaters in place of electric: Totally depends on the skill of the chef! May actually lead to a better, more delicate product because hand blenders often have more blades.

Cake 8, only 1/2 the amount of sugar used: Sugar helps prevent the eggs proteins from denaturing, making it take longer to create a foam and leading to finer air cells and a stronger structure. Without sugar, structure is weak and may not be high in volume, crumb is coarser, and cake is bbviously not as sweet. The lack of sugar also leads to more developed gluten because there's no sugar to draw the water away from the gluten to develop it, which means a tougher cake with less sugar.

Cake 9, lemon juice used in place of cream of tartar: Lemony tasting and structure is weaker, less consistent.

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